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Inverkeithing

Inverkeithing ( ; ) is a coastal town, parish and historic Royal burgh in Fife, Scotland. The town lies on the north shore of the Firth of Forth, northwest of Edinburgh city centre and south of Dunfermline.

Inverkeithing became an important centre of trade and pilgrimage during the Middle Ages and was granted Royal burgh status by 1161. It was the meeting place of the Parliament of Scotland in 1354 and the Convention of Royal Burghs from 1487 to 1552. The town witnessed the Battle of Inverkeithing in 1651, a conflict in the Wars of the Three Kingdoms. Following the Industrial Revolution, Inverkeithing developed industries including quarrying, ship breaking and paper milling.

Inverkeithing town centre is a conservation area following a medieval town plan, with the best-preserved medieval friary in Scotland and one of the finest examples of a mercat cross. The town's annual highland games and Lammas fair are among the oldest in Scotland. Inverkeithing lies on the Fife Coastal Path, one of Scotland's Great Trails, and the Fife Pilgrim Way.

Inverkeithing railway station is a main stop for trains running over the nearby Forth Bridge, and the town is home to the Ferrytoll Park & Ride. Half of Inverkeithing's workers commute to Edinburgh city centre or Dunfermline (2024). The town has a population of 4,820 (2020) and the civil parish has a population of 8,878 (2022).

Toponymy

The name is of Scottish Gaelic origin, Inbhir Céitein. Inbhir is a common element in place names with Celtic roots and means "confluence, inflow" (see Aber and Inver), thus "mouth of the Keithing/Céitein". The Keithing is the name of a small river or burn that runs through the southern part of the town. Simon Taylor notes that the name Keithing probably contains the Pictish (Brythonic) *coet, "wood", so the Keithing burn would have meant "stream that runs through or past or issues from woodland". William Watson in 1910 hypothesised an etymological link between the hydronym Keithing and the Welsh cethin, "dusky" (cf. Bryncethin).

Geography

Inverkeithing lies on the north shore of the Firth of Forth at its narrowest crossing point. Inverkeithing is almost contiguous with the neighbouring settlements of North Queensferry, Rosyth, Hillend village and Dalgety Bay. The nearest cities are Dunfermline, northwest, and Edinburgh, southeast. Topographically, Inverkeithing is situated on a raised terrace sloping down towards Inverkeithing Bay, which cuts in to the south of the town, separating it from the North Queensferry Peninsula. The town is bounded to the west by Castlandhill and to the east by Letham Hill, a 324 ft coastal hill and woodland.

The Keithing Burn is a small river that flows through Inverkeithing. The river falls into the Inner Bay of Inverkeithing Bay south of the town centre at Inverkeithing Harbour. The Inner Bay of Inverkeithing is an inlet of Inverkeithing Bay.

Inverkeithing lies on the Fife Coastal Path, a long-distance footpath designated as one of Scotland's Great Trails. Coming from North Queensferry, the path winds around the Inner Bay, through Inverkeithing town, by Ballast Bank park, and past a small sandy beach. The Fife Pilgrim Way also passes through Inverkeithing.

Fairykirk is a woodland and shrubland in Inverkeithing, part of the Ferryhills nature protected area.

History

Prehistory

The earliest known finds from Inverkeithing are Neolithic, including stone axe heads, which suggests people were clearing woodland and settling in Inverkeithing during the fourth millennium BC. The discovery of a collared urn indicates burial activity in the second millennium BC.

Ancient origins

There is evidence that during the Roman conquest of Britain, Roman governor Agricola established an encampment in the area between AD 78–87 during his war against the Caledonians. In Inverkeithing itself, a bronze Roman coin dating from AD 218 to 222 was found, and Roman Road is believed to be of Roman origin.

Around the 5th century, St Erat—purported to have been a follower of St Ninian— is said to have founded a church in Inverkeithing. However, there is no hard evidence for this, since the first written reference to St Erat only comes in a sasine from 1588.

Medieval Inverkeithing (12th to 16th century)

Inverkeithing is first documented in 1114, when it is mentioned in the foundation charter of Scone Abbey granted by King Alexander I. In 1163 it appears as "Innirkeithin" in Pope Alexander III's summons of the clergy of the British Isles to the Council of Tours. Inverkeithing was made one of Fife's first royal burghs—which brought with it legal and trading privileges—in the 12th century. While the precise date is unknown, its burgh status may have been bestowed during the reign of David I, and it is mentioned as an existing burgh as early as 1161 by Malcolm IV. The settlement was an obvious choice to be created a burgh, as its location at the narrowest crossing point of the Firth of Forth and its sheltered bay were both strategically important.

Throughout much of the Middle Ages, Inverkeithing was an important resting place and staging post for pilgrims. Travelers on their way to the shrines of Saint Margaret in Dunfermline and Saint Andrew in St Andrews would often stop in the town after crossing the Firth of Forth via the Queen's Ferry. A hostel for pilgrims in Inverkeithing is documented as a possession of Dryburgh Abbey as early as 1196. A Franciscan friary was established in the mid-14th century, which was also intended to serve religious travellers; the building survives to this day as Inverkeithing Friary.Inverkeithing's medieval church was consecrated to St. Peter by Bishop David de Bernham on 24 August 1244. One of the earliest accounts of life in Inverkeithing comes from the 14th-century Lanercost Chronicle. At Easter 1282, the Chronicle relates, the parish priest of Inverkeithing had "revived the profane rites of Priapus, collecting young girls from the villages, and compelling them to dance in circles to the honour of Father Bacchus, [...] singing and dancing himself and stirring them to lust by filthy language." When the priest exhibited similar behaviour during Lent, a scandalised citizen stabbed him to death. The incident was used by influential archaeologist and folklorist Margaret Murray in her 1931 book The God of the Witches as support for her (now mostly discredited) hypothesis of the survival of British paganism into the Middle Ages.

Inverkeithing was the last place that King Alexander III was seen before he died on 19 March 1286. The King had crossed the Forth from Dalmeny in a storm to pay a birthday visit to Queen Yolande, who was staying in Kinghorn. On arriving in Inverkeithing, the party was met by one of the burgesses of the town, Alexander Le Saucier, who tried to convince the King to stay the night. However, the pleas fell on deaf ears, and Alexander set off into the rainy night with two local guides. The group lost its way near Kinghorn and the King was found dead at the bottom of a steep embankment on the next day, having presumably fallen from his horse.

Several 14th-century Scottish monarchs had connections with Inverkeithing. In August 1296, thirteen burgesses of Inverkeithing swore fealty to Edward I ("Longshanks"), who also stayed in the town on 2 March 1304 on his return to Scotland during the First War of Scottish Independence, and wrote letters here as he made his way from Dunfermline to St Andrews. King Robert I sentenced Roger de Mowbray, baron of Inverkeithing, to death for treason after he sealed the Declaration of Arbroath in 1320, causing the town to be forfeited to the crown. In April 1354, during the reign of David II, the Parliament of Scotland met in Inverkeithing.

In 1487, an Act of Parliament during the reign of James III specified that the Convention of Royal Burghs would be held annually in Inverkeithing. Evolving in parallel to the Parliament of Scotland, the Convention was an important representative assembly of trading towns. While the Act specified Inverkeithing as the host, it is unclear how many meetings were held there before the Convention moved to Edinburgh in 1552.

In 1503, the town defended their right to hold the customary Saint Luke's Fair against the landowner Robert Douglas of Lochleven. One the bailies, William Broun, produced a charter for holding the fair issued by Robert II of Scotland and successfully argued for the town's rights before the Privy Council and James IV. In November 1504, a plague scare at Dunfermline Palace saw four African women including Ellen More, with John Mosman, the court apothecary, stay in Inverkeithing. As an important town, Inverkeithing was one of the few Scottish burghs to have four stone gates—known as "ports"—around its medieval settlement; Inverkeithing town walls were added in 1557. Inverkeithing enjoyed a successful trade in wool, fleece and hides, and served as a hub of commerce for Fife. The town's flourishing was evidenced by its weekly markets and five annual fairs. Inverkeithing was granted a charter of confirmation as a Royal Burgh by James VI in 1598.

Early Modern Inverkeithing (17th to mid-18th century)

As part of the Scottish Reformation, Inverkeithing Friary was sold off to a private buyer in 1559; and in 1611 the parishes of Inverkeithing and Rosyth were united, with the union formally decreed in 1618.

Inverkeithing was a hotbed for witch trials in the 17th century. In 1621 six local women were tried for witchcraft in the Tolbooth; between 1621 and 1652, at least 51 people were executed for witchcraft in Inverkeithing. This was an unusually large number for a town of this size; Kirkcaldy only saw 18 executions in the same period. The reason is believed to be a combination of cholera outbreaks, famine, and the appointment of Rev. Walter Bruce—a known witch hunter—as minister of Inverkeithing Parish Church. Bruce played a pivotal role in initiating the so-called Great Scottish witch hunt of 1649–50. The executions were carried out at Witch Knowe to the south of town (which today is within Hope Street Cemetery and Witchknowe Park).

A pivotal battle during the Wars of the Three Kingdoms took place at Inverkeithing. 20 July 1651, the Battle of Inverkeithing was fought on two sites in the area, one north of the town close to Pitreavie Castle, the other to the south on and around the peninsula of North Queensferry and the isthmus connecting it to Inverkeithing. The battle took place during Oliver Cromwell's invasion of the Kingdom of Scotland following the Third English Civil War. It was an attempt by the English Parliamentarian forces to outflank the army of Scottish Covenanters loyal to Charles II at Stirling and get access to the north of Scotland. This was the last major engagement of the Wars of the Three Kingdoms and led to Scotland passing into Cromwell's control. Cromwell's 4,500 troops defeated a Scottish force of roughly equal size. Of the estimated 800 MacLean clansmen who fought in the battle, only 35 were said to have survived, although Covenanter officer Sir James Balfour estimated the clan's losses at around 100. An apocryphal account states that the Pinkerton Burn ran red with blood for three days afterwards.

In 1707, James Spittle representing Inverkeithing voted in favour of ratification of the Treaty of Union (see Act of Union). As a result of the Act, in 1708 Inverkeithing lost its separate Parliament of Scotland constituency and became part of the wider Stirling Burghs constituency in the Parliament of the United Kingdom.

Daniel Defoe, writing of Inverkeithing in his Tour thro' the Whole Island of Great Britain in 1724, relates that Inverkeithing had briefly become known in England in the early 1700s for a crime of passion in which Robert Balfour, 5th Lord Balfour of Burleigh, murdered an Inverkeithing schoolmaster who had married a woman Balfour loved—the nobleman was later sentenced to death, but escaped captivity by exchanging clothes with his sister.

Inverkeithing was in decline following its prosperity during the medieval era. Trade had begun to decrease by the 16th century, and political and social instability caused by both plague and war meant this downward trend continued in the 17th century. In 1654, Dutch cartographer Joan Blaeu mentions Inverkeithing as "formerly a flourishing market" in his Nova Fifae Descriptio. Daniel Defoe found the town to be "still populous, but decayed, as to what it has formerly been", sentiments echoed by Sir William Burrell in 1758.

In the mid 18th century, the congregation of Inverkeithing Parish Church split over the choice of a minister by right of patronage, leading to the creation of St John's Church in 1752 by 127 parishioners. By the 1830's, the congregation at St John's Church comprised roughly half the burgh’s population. The spit would continue for over 250 years.

Industrial Inverkeithing (mid 18th to 19th century)

Inverkeithing developed many industries during the Industrial Revolution, bringing new wealth and expansion to the town. In the 18th century, lead and coal were mined, there was an iron foundry, a brewery, tan works, soap works, a salt pan and timber works. A whisky distillery was opened in 1795, and operated until the mid-19th century; its buildings were later used for oil works. The Halbeath Waggon Railway opened in 1783.

Town expansion took place in the early 19th century - including the rebuilding of St Peter's Church in 1826, Inverkeithing Corn Exchange in 1833, and residential expansion partly directed by Sir Robert Preston. The town's three bridges over the Keithing Burn—Boreland Road Bridge, King Street Bridge and Commercial Road Bridge—were built in 1829, 1815 and 1821, respectively.

In the early 19th century through to 1835, a land lazaretto stood at Inverkeithing harbour for the purpose of local quarantine: only the second land lazaretto in Scotland, and later the setting of James Simpson's 1886 work "Reminiscences of childhood at Inverkeithing, or, Life at a lazaretto"

On 6 September 1842, Inverkeithing received a royal visit from Queen Victoria and Prince Albert.

By the mid-19th century quarrying, engineering and shipbuilding were major industries in the area and the population increased due to an influx of labourers employed in greenstone quarries. The quarries provided material for major works, such as the extension of Leith Pier and some of the piers of the Forth Bridge. By 1870, engineering and shipbuilding had largely ceased, and the harbour lost freight traffic to the railways. Inverkeithing Railway Station opened in 1877, and was significantly expanded in 1890 as a dual track railway following the completion of the nearby Forth Rail Bridge, which led to another surge in population and new building. The importance of fishing declined with industrialisation, and by 1891 Inverkeithing only had 14 resident fishermen.

Modern Inverkeithing (20th Century onwards)

At the beginning of the 20th century, Inverkeithing became known for new industries. Shipbreaking at Thos. W. Ward's yard saw famous ships including the revolutionary battleship HMS Dreadnought in 1923, the hull of the Titanic's sister ship RMS Olympic in 1937, the Nazi Party cruise ship Robert Ley in 1947, passenger steamer and later depot ship HMS Montclare in 1958, and the second RMS Mauretania in 1966. By 1925, quarrying remained a major operation at Cruicks quarry and Prestonhill quarry, but the town's saltworks, iron foundry and sawmill had closed. Caldwell's paper mill, opened in 1914, would remain until 2003.

130 Inverkeithing men and women died in WWI and 36 died in WWII. On 16 October 1939, the first air raid of Britain of the Second World War took place: the Battle of the River Forth. Pilots of the 602 (Glasgow) squadron spotted Luftwaffe aircraft of Helmuth Pohle over Inverkeithing. At Inverkeithing orders were given to chase through broken clouds, resulting in the killing of two German crew. During WWII, the Polish government in exile operated a barracks in Inverkeithing; on 14 June 1945, Radio Moscow claimed this was ran as a concentration camp.

Inverkeithing United F.C. was founded in 1906. In 1914 one of the first cinemas in Scotland was opened in the town. In 1971, the hard rock band Nazareth started rehearsals as a full time band in Inverkeithing and recorded songs including Broken Down Angel in the town.

In 1975, all Royal Burghs were disbanded and Inverkeithing came within Fife Council. In 1985, Inverkeithing Conservation Area was created to preserve the heritage of the town.

Places of interest

Inverkeithing is home to 55 listed buildings, including five of category A status. The heart of the medieval town was located around High Street, Bank Street, Townhall Street and Church Street.

Inverkeithing Friary and Gardens

One of the best surviving examples of a friary building in Scotland is the category A listed Hospitium of the Grey Friars. The Franciscan friary is mentioned in 1384, when it would have been a thriving hub for pilgrims to Dunfermline and St Andrews, comprising accommodations, cloisters, storage cellars, and a chapel. The friary was sold in 1559 during the Scottish Reformation and remodelled into a tenement; the building was originally cruciform. The foundations of the north range of the complex, together with a well and several cellars, can be seen in the public gardens next to the hospitium.

Inverkeithing Mercat Cross

Inverkeithing's Mercat Cross is one of the oldest and finest remaining examples of a mercat cross in Scotland, dating from 1389. The cross is believed to have been built as a memorial of the marriage between the Duke of Rothesay and the daughter of the Earl of Douglas. Two of the shields on the cross bear the arms of Queen Anabella Drummond and the Douglas family. Later, a unicorn and a shield depicting the St Andrew's Cross were added in 1688, the work of John Boyd of South Queensferry.

Inverkeithing Town House

On Townhall Street is Inverkeithing Town House (also known as the Tolbooth). The Renaissance tower, at the western end of the building, is the oldest part of the tolbooth, dating from 1755. A three-storey classical building followed in 1770 as a replacement for the previous tolbooth. The building featured a prison or 'black hole' on the ground floor, the court room on the middle and the debtors' prison on the top. The building was fully renovated and remodelled for community use from 2022 to 2024.

St. Peter's Church

Inverkeithing Parish Church of St. Peter was founded by Waltheof of Allerdale as a wooden Celtic church before being adapted into a Norman stone structure, which was bequeathed by the monks of Dunfermline Abbey in 1139. The Norman foundations were reused for the 13th century Gothic structure, and a tower was added in the 14th century, which survived extensive fire damage in 1825. The main part of the church is a large neo-Gothic 'preaching box' of 1826–27, designed by James Gillespie Graham. The church's interior is graced by one of the finest medieval furnishings to survive in any Scottish parish church: a sandstone font of around 1398, a royal gift, Inverkeithing being a favourite residence of Queen Anabella Drummond. Notable ministers include Robert Roche (Moderator of the Church of Scotland in 1613) and witch hunter Walter Bruce, who served as 'Constant Moderator' of the Church of Scotland from 1662 until 1673.

Fordell's Lodging

Fordell's Lodging is opposite St Peter's Church and is a rare L-plan baronial tower house which dates from 1666 to 1671. The house was built by Sir John Henderson of Fordell, whose family held the office of hereditary provost and sheriff of Inverkeithing by a grant of Queen Mary. Awarded category A listing from Historic Scotland, the listing describes Fordell's Lodging as "one of Inverkeithing's most intact 17th century buildings" and "a very fine example of a 17th century town house built for a local landowner in one of the wealthy coastal towns of Fife".

Thomson's House

An "exceptionally preserved" traditional burgh town house, the house dates from 1617, and was reconstructed in 1965. The home is notable for its carved sandstone pediment, which includes the initials of the first owners John Thomson ("I.T.") and Bessie Thomsoun ("B.T."). Grade A listed by Historic Scotland, their statement of special interest reads: "[Thomson's House] is the best-preserved example of 17th century domestic burgh architecture in Inverkeithing and is a pre-eminent example of its type, similar to some of the best buildings in Culross".

Other historic buildings

Other landmarks

Local community

Notable annual events include Inverkeithing Highland Games, which has been staged in the town since 1646, and draws crowds of up to 5000 spectators. In conjunction, the town hosts the annual Inverkeithing Lammas Fair Celebrations; the fair's hat and ribbon race is believed to be the oldest road race in Scotland. The town also hosts an annual firework display; 'Divit Fest' music festival; Inverkeithing Gala; and a Christmas Fair.

Inverkeithing Community Garden and orchard has been run by volunteers since 2010; the Inverkeithing Trust runs an annual garden competition and flower show; and Inverkeithing has allotments at Hope Street and Spittalfield. The town won the Inverflora Best Small Town in Scotland award at the 2017 Beautiful Scotland awards.

Community venues in the town include Inverkeithing Civic Centre and library and café; Ballast Bank Community Centre; and Lodge St John 60.

Some longstanding community groups include Inverkeithing Community Big Band, who have met since 1998 and perform at Edinburgh Fringe Festival (2025), Inverkeithing Encore theatre group, Inverkeithing Local History society founded 1991, Inverkeithing and Dalgety Bay Rotary Club, and the 68th (Fife) Scouts group of B-P Hall on Hope Street, Inverkeithing.

Inverkeithing has four active churches:

The town is served by Inverkeithing Primary School and Inverkeithing High School, and is home to Inverkeithing Medical Group, an NHS practice.

Of Inverkeithing's workforce of 2,000 people, over 550 work in Edinburgh and over 400 work in Dunfermline (2022).

Sport

Inverkeithing United F.C. was founded in 1906, and won the Scottish Junior Cup in 1912–13. The team disbanded in 1963, were reformed as a community football club in 2017, and currently play as an SFA accredited community football club with a community based football pathway from U5's to U17's.

Inverkeithing Hillfield Swifts, founded in 1996, entered their senior team into the pyramid in 2018 and currently compete in the (2025). Inverkeithing Hibs AFC, an amateur team, compete in the Fife Sunday Amateur Football League.

Inverkeithing Bowling Club, founded in 1901, is among the oldest in Fife. Located at Elgin Park, the club competes as part of district 8 of Bowls Scotland. The club has produced Scottish national players at the British Isles Championships and Scottish triples winners.

Inverkeithing Competitive Amateur Swimmers were founded in 1975.

The Inverkeithing Curling Club is one of the largest in Fife, and dates to before 1838.

Governance

For the UK Parliament, Inverkeithing forms part of the Cowdenbeath and Kirkcaldy constituency, as of 2024 held by Melanie Ward for the Labour Party.

For the Scottish Parliament, Inverkeithing is part of the Cowdenbeath constituency, as of 2024 represented by Annabelle Ewing of the Scottish National Party.

Fife Council is the local authority for Inverkeithing, which is part of the Inverkeithing and Dalgety Bay (ward). Following the 2022 local elections, councillors representing the town are David Barratt (SNP), Dave Dempsey (Conservative), Patrick Browne (Labour) and Sarah Neal (SNP).

Inverkeithing Community Council is active, voluntary and the most local elected representation.

Transport

Inverkeithing Railway Station is a main stop for Scotrail's Fife Circle line services, as well as CrossCountry, LNER and Caledonian Sleeper services.

Bus services for Inverkeithing are operated by Stagecoach and Bay Travel. Ferrytoll Park and Ride is a bus park and ride scheme for Edinburgh and Fife located in Inverkeithing.

Inverkeithing is bypassed by the M90 motorway, which links Fife to Lothian and Edinburgh via the Queensferry Crossing.

Inverkeithing is on National Cycle Route 1 and National Cycle Route 76.

Filming location

The 2000 film Complicity, starring Jonny Lee Miller and Brian Cox, was partly filmed in Inverkeithing.

In 2014, the Inverkeithing Highland Games were featured in season 7, episode 1 of the US television show Duck Dynasty, in which cast members participated in some of the events.

In 2018, an episode of BBC's Celebrity Antiques Road Trip was set in Inverkeithing, featuring Fleming's Antique and Furniture Centre. In 2021, Antiques Road Trip filmed an episode in Inverkeithing.

In 2024, scenes for the ITV crime series Karen Prie was filmed on the High Street.

Notable residents

This list contains notable people who were either born in, residents of, or otherwise closely associated with, Inverkeithing.

Royalty, nobility and religion

Military

Politics

Science and exploration

Film, TV, literature and music

  • Morris Blythman (1919–1981), poet, musician and political activist; influential to the Scottish Folk Revival.
  • Denise Coffey (1936–2022), English actress, comedian, director and playwright.
  • James Simpson (1826–1882), author of "Reminiscences of Childhood at Inverkeithing; Or, Life at a Lazaretto" (1882); "Charles Waterton" (1880) and "Was John Bunyan a Gypsy?" (1882).

Sport

Miscellaneous

Gallery

See also

References

External links

Tourist visitor sites

Community sites