is a woman who makes , a form of Italian fresh pasta resembling a sheet made only with flour and eggs. A is historically seen as a middle-aged woman who rolls and stretches out the dough with a (), on a large wooden pastry board called . Their typical handmade creations are tagliatelle, tortellini, and other egg-pasta, also many times stuffed pasta such as or cappelletti.
The (: ) tradition comes from the Emilia-Romagna region, where is also called azdora or zdoura in both Emilian and Bolognese dialects. The masculine is (: ). Bologna is the city where this figure and the art of was born. Its housewives used to say, "You will know when you did a good because if you lift it in the direction of light, you will be able to see the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca."
The tradition of is centuries old and was present in every Emilian family. The tradition of home-made fresh pasta is still very widespread. also work in restaurants and trattorias, although less often. Nevertheless, she still represents the cookery art of Emilia-Romagna, as made by its artisans.
Fresh pasta is usually produced by in a small laboratory that is simply furnished. While they are working, they usually wear a white uniform with an apron and listen to Italian songs.
The sense of community is strong in the laboratories. They create an environment redolent of Italian domestic culture. These conditions are important in order to guarantee the authenticity of the product. is associated with festivities and Sunday celebrations where women together prepare the meal for the family. This convention can be seen at the amateur level as well from the name of the fresh pasta competitions, the most famous is "Miss Tagliatella".
The practice of is not regulated, either nationally or regionally. Supporters of professionalization claim that the lack of regulation stems from the fact that it is considered a typically female job and as such does not qualify.
The idea of professionalisation dates from 2004 when Franco Grillini, a Parliamentarian from Emilia-Romagna, submitted a two-part bill, one involving the creation of a committee for the protection of the Emilia-Romagnan and another to regulate the profession of and .
Moreover, to Grillini it was important to free from its traditional stereotypes: opening the profession to men. Therefore, according to Grillini's vision, such a law should have enhanced the dignity and prestige of the craft. The proposal was ultimately dismissed.
Another attempt at regulation was made in 2017 by then democratic senator . He proposed training courses and the accreditation of and at a regional level. Lo Giudice's bill was also rejected.
Cultural intermediaries and producers have allied to promote consumption of local, traditional, and sustainable produce. Initiatives to promote 's work, the inauguration of Vecchia Scuola Bolognese (VSB) represents an attempt to restore dignity and visibility to the craft. VSB is a space in Bologna, dedicated to food culture. It is considered the house of , under the guide of Alessandra Spinsi. The school offers many courses for beginners and professionals to learn traditional cooking.
The school features the activities of its graduates in 17 countries on its website.