is a variety of silk cloth produced in Japan, chiefly in in Prefecture. It is designated as one of the Important Intangible Cultural Properties of Japan, and has also been inscribed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
The traditional history of traces its origin to a crafthouse known as during the reign of the legendary Emperor . Knowledge of the method of silk production, developed by its founder, , was said to have immediately spread out to the district and beyond.
Another account identified the period (14thâÂÂ16th century) as the period when was developed. It is said that the feudal lord of a farmer family in the Hitachi Province sent fabric to a governor called every year as a gift.
Developing from earlier silk techniques, the name was adopted in 1602. Weavers were invited from Castle and the cloth, at first plain, was used as a gift for the .
In 1873, was exhibited at the 1873 Vienna World's Fair, and became known worldwide. Currently, approximately one hundred and thirty craftsmen practice the craft of production in and .
To produce the fabric, silk floss is first extracted from silkworm cocoons and is spun by hand into yarn. Dyed patterns are added to the cloth with ikat before weaving with a loom known as a . The technique involves a tedious process of manually tying thousands of resists before the yarn is dyed, based on the desired resulting pattern or design. The strap around the weaver's waist enables the tension of the vertical thread to be adjusted. It can take up to fifteen days to weave enough plain fabric for an adult garment, and up to forty-five days for patterned fabric.
In 1956, was designated one of the Important Intangible Cultural Properties of Japan. The was established in 1976 and helps promote and transmit the craft. High School in has a club. In 2010, UNESCO inscribed on its Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.