Kutch embroidery is a handicraft and textile signature art tradition of the tribal community of Kutch district in Gujarat, India. The tradition and its designs has made a notable contribution to Indian embroidery traditions. The embroidery, most frequently made by women, is generally done on fabrics of cotton, in the form of a net using cotton or silk threads. In certain patterns, it is also crafted over silk and satin. The types of stitches adopted are "square chain, double buttonhole, pattern darning, running stitch, satin and straight stitches". The signature effect of the colorful embroidery sparkles when small mirrors called abhla are sewn over the geometrically shaped designs. Depending on the tribal sub groups of Rabari, Garasia Jat, and Mutava involved with this craft work many hand embroidered ethnic styles have evolved. These six styles: Suf, khaarek, Paako, Rabari, Garasia Jat, and Mutava.
This embroidery product of Kutch has been registered for protection under the List of Geographical indication of the Trade Related Intellectual Property Rights (TRIPS) agreement. In March 2013, it was listed as "Kutch Embroidery" under the GI Act 1999 of the Government of India with registration confirmed by the Controller General of Patents Designs and Trademarks under Class 24 Textile and Textile Goods, and its logo registered in November 2015 vide application number 509 for the dated 8 January 2012.
Kutch embroidery is made in several villages in the Kutch district, which lie within the geographical coordinates of and . These villages are Abdasa, Anjar, Bhachau, Bhuj, Lakhpat, Mandvi, Mundra, Nakhatrana, and Rapar.
Kutch embroidery traces to the 16th and 17th centuries, when the region saw increased immigration from countries such as Afghanistan, Greece, Germany, Iran and Iraq to Gujarat. It is also said that cobblers known as Mochis were trained in this art form by the Muslim sufi saints of Sindh. The art form became a vocation for women of Kutch not only to meet their own clothing requirements but also to make a living. It became a generational art with the skills taught from mother to daughter. They embroidered clothes for festive occasions and to decorate deities and to create a source of income.
Embroidered products are of 16 types known by specific names as:
6,000 women are engaged in this work. Many societies and some private corporations are involved in their production.
The materials used for the embroidery consist of fabrics made of threads of cotton, silk woolen and mashru (an Arabic name). The types of threads used are of floss silk and other varieties. Tracing paper and its associated product are used for drawing the designs. Other essential embroidering tools and material are needle, mirrors, and sequins. Embroidery is done with the fabric fixed on an adjustable embroidery frame to adjust the tension of the cloth or by holding the fabric in hand.
The designs used in embroideryrelate to the themes of daily lifestyles, animals and birds (like elephant, camel, parrot, peacock, etc.), flora, religious places such as temples, and figurines of women in dancing postures.
The procedure adopted for stitching with needles is by inserting them into the fabric and bringing it up in one motion and then pulling the thread. A thimble is used with the help of the middle finger to speed up the process. Some of the major stitches used are identified by specific names such as "Mochi Bharat, Shisha or Abhala mirror work, Heer Bharat, Soof, Kharek and Paako".
Mirrors or glass pieces in different shapes are stitched to the fabric to make it shine; it is a specialty in the rituals and folklore culture of the pastoral community of Rabaris of Kutch. The best quality embroidery is known as "aari" which was done earlier for the royal family and well to do families.
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